free patterns and tutorial

Wednesday 27 March 2013

collar

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uK3tLUnzmFY

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1)Interface the collar and the facing and the garment about an inch and a half from the center front into the shirt, where the buttons and buttonholes will go. Be sure that all notches, match points, shoulder points and center-back points are all marked properly to facilitate pinning and sewing.
2) stitch the collar together, clip corners, turn and press. leave the edge that attaches to the neck open and unfinished. If you want to add top stitching or any decorative elements to the collar, do so now, being sure they won't interfere with sewing the collar into the garment. 
3)stay stitch the garment along the neck edge seam line including the facings. clip the raw edge right up to the stay stitching. Some modern instructions say clip the curve then stitch. DON"T DO THAT! Do it the old fashioned way, stitch then clip. The stitching and clipping will allow the neck edge to straighten out when pinning the the collar and when being sewn.
4)pin the collar against the right side of the garment along the neck-edge, being sure to match all match points, shoulder center back etc. baste in place.
5)fold the facings and pin along the neck edge wrong sides together with the collar sandwiched between the garment and facing. Press the facing front edge from the collar right down to the hem and pin it in place This extra step will ensure that the facing is in the correct place and not skewed, which is easy for a beginner to do,
6) stitch the neck edge sandwich together, garment, collar and facing all in one. Grade and trim the seam allowances or use the serger to overlock the edges for a clean, professional finish. Clip the corners, turn and press.
7) voilĂ ! A finished collar, facing, front edge and neckline! Stitch the facing to the collar to hold in in place, stitch from the right side in the shoulder seam. This is called "stitch in the ditch and it will make the sewing invisible. If you want a sporty look, top stitch the collar and the front edge. If you want a decorative edge, top-stitch using decorative thread.